TLDR
For small text, use 100% K (plain black) for sharper edges.
For big black areas, use a rich black mix so blacks don’t look gray.
Don’t turn all text into rich black, unless you enjoy fuzzy letters from slight ink misregistration.
Paper and finish matter. A lot.
If you want deep blacks on MTG proxies, you’re usually reacting to one of two problems:
Blacks look washed out (grayish).
Blacks look muddy (too much ink, loss of detail).
Let’s fix both without summoning the full prepress handbook.
Why black prints “weak” sometimes
In CMYK printing, “black” can be:
K only (just black ink)
Rich black (black ink plus some C/M/Y)
K-only black can look a bit flat in large areas. Rich black can look deeper, but it’s easier to mess up.
Use the right black for the right job
Use 100% K for:
small text
fine linework
mana symbols and tiny icons
anything where edge crispness matters
Reason: mixing multiple inks on tiny details increases the chance of slight misregistration, which can show up as colored halos or softer edges.
Use rich black for:
large black backgrounds
big shapes
heavy shadows where you want depth
Reason: adding CMY behind the black deepens the visual black.
A safe rich black starting point
Different printers recommend different mixes to control total ink coverage. A common “safe” approach is to use a moderate CMY mix plus 100% K.
If you need a starting point, use something in the neighborhood of:
C 30 / M 30 / Y 30 / K 100 for large black areas
Then test. Because printers, paper, and coatings vary.
The “muddy art” problem
Muddy blacks usually happen when:
total ink coverage is too high, or
black shadows in art get crushed with conversion, or
you’re printing on absorbent stock that spreads ink.
Fix
keep rich black only for large flat areas,
protect midtone detail with a test print,
avoid stacking heavy black over already dark art unless you proof it.
Paper and finish matter more than people admit
On smoother coated stocks, blacks tend to look cleaner and denser. On cheap absorbent cardstock, blacks can look dull or fuzzy.
If you’re trying to match “real deck feel,” stock and finish do a lot of the heavy lifting:
FAQs
Why does my black text look slightly colored?
It may be rich black (CMYK mix) instead of K-only. Use 100% K for text.
Can I just set everything to rich black?
You can, but small text can print softer due to multi-ink registration tolerance. Use rich black selectively.
Do inkjet printers follow these rules?
Inkjet drivers vary, but the same concept applies: text needs crisp edges, large areas need depth. Test prints still matter.
What’s the fastest way to improve black depth?
Use a richer black for large areas and print on better stock with a smoother finish.
Will sleeves affect black appearance?
Sleeves mostly affect glare and contrast slightly. They won’t fix a weak black build.